Fabric is any textile formed by weaving. Woven fabric are often created on a loom, and made of many threads woven on a warp and a weft. Technically, a woven fabric is any fabric made by interlacing two or more threads at right angles to one another. Woven fabrics are generally more durable.
The woven fabric only stretches diagonally on the bias directions (between the warp and weft directions), unless the threads used are elastic. The woven cloth usually frays at the edges, unless techniques are used to counter it, such as the use of pinking shears or hemming. |
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Fabrics that are woven do not stretch as easily as knitted fabrics, which can make them advantageous for many uses.
Much variety is produced by weaving. They can be easily cut into different shapes and are excellent for producing styles in garments. Fabrics having more fabric count (number of wrap and weft yearns present) keep the shape well. Low count fabrics are less durable and may snag or stretch.
Woven fabrics are manufactured in different widths depending on the end use. |
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Types of Woven Fabrics – universally used fabric names
1. Buckram Fabric
A stiff coated fabric made from a lightweight loosely woven fabric, impregnated with adhesives and fillers, this fabric is used as interfacing so as to provide support and shape retention to necklines, collars, belts, cuffs, waistbands, button closures, etc in garments. They are also used as reinforcements for handbags and other articles.
Buckram is a stiff cotton (occasionally linen or horsehair) cloth with a loose weave, often muslin. The fabric is soaked in wheat starch paste, glue (such as PVA glue), or pyroxylin (gelatinized nitrocellulose, developed around 1910), as sizing and then dried. When rewetted or warmed, it can be shaped to create durable firm fabric for book covers, hats, and elements of clothing. In bookbinding, pyroxylin impregnated fabrics are considered superior to starch-filled fabrics because their surfaces are more water-resistant, they are more resistant to insects and fungi, and are generally stronger. They wear well and are particularly suitable for use in library binding where many people will be repeatedly handling the same books. Pyroxylin also allows for unique decorative effects on book covers. They, too, are water repellant and immune to insect attack and fungi, but they do not wear as well as starch impregnated cloths because of cracking at the joints and occasional peeling of the coating. |
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2. Cambric Fabric
Cambric is a lightweight fabric woven in plain weave and produced with a stiff finish. It is suitable for women’s dresses and children’s dresses that require crispness.
Cambric or batiste, one of the finest and most dense kinds of cloth, is a lightweight plain-weave cloth, originally from the French commune of Cambrai, woven in greige, then bleached, piece-dyed, and often glazed or calendered. Initially, it was made of linen; later, the term came to be applied to cotton fabrics as well. Cambric is used as fabric for linens, shirts, handkerchieves, ruffs, lace, and needlework. The term “cambric cloth” also applies to a stiff, usually black, open-weave cloth typically used for a dust cover on the bottom of upholstered furniture.
Chambray, though the same type of fabric, had a colored warp and a white weft, though it could be “made from any color as you may wish, in the warp, and also in the filling; only have them differ from each other. “Chambray differs from denim in that “chambray’s warp and weft threads will alternate one over the other, while denim’s warp thread will go over two threads in the weft before going under one.” As a result, the color of chambray cloth is similar front and back, while the reverse side of denim is lighter in color. |
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3. Casement Fabric
Casement is a medium-weight cotton fabric made of closely packed thick warp yarns. Generally, it is used for curtains, table linen, upholstery and rarely used for dresses. |
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4. Cheese Cloth
It is a popular lightweight sheer fabric having an open weave. It has a low-count fabric consisting of carded yarns. Originally it was used for wrapping cheese or meat and hence the name. It is neither strong nor durable. It is finished in a variety of ways that attract the consumer. It is used not only for women’s and children’s dresses but also for drapery fabrics. Due to its open structure, it does not require much ironing. |
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5. Chiffon Fabric
Chiffon fabrics are sheer, lightweight fabrics made of hard twisted yarns. Originally these are made in silk fabrics but today they are made from rayon or polyester. They are used for sarees and women’s evening wear. The fabrics encounter the problem of shrinkage. |
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6. Chintz Fabric
Chintz is a medium-weight, plain woven cotton yarn. It is often given a glazed finish which may be temporary or semi-permanent glazed chintz is available in a solid color as well as printed with floral prints. These are often made from blends of cotton and polyester or rayon. They are used for skits, dresses, blouses, pajamas, aprons, and draperies. |
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7. Corduroy Fabric
It is a cut pile fabric available in solid colors. The cut pile fibers are seen in the form of ribs on the surface. It is mainly used for pants, jeans, and shirts. |
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8. Crepe Fabric
A silk fabric is originally characterized by a crinkle, puckered surface formed by highly twisted yarns in the warp or weft, or both. By using ordinary yarns similar crepe effects can also be produced. Synthetic fabrics also impart a crepe effect finish. It is used for sarees, shirts, women's and children’s dresses. |
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9. Denim Fabric
It was traditionally a yarn-dyed, warp-faced cotton twill fabric. Warp is usually colored (mostly blue, maroon, green, and brown) and the weft is white. This fabric is made of two weights for sportswear and overalls. Its use as jeans has made it very popular and so the nature of denim is also changed to suit the trend. It is often napped, printed, and made with stretch yarn. |
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10. Drill Fabric
It is a warp-faced twill woven fabric. It has a stiff finish. Originally it was produced in white and now it is available in solid colors. It is mainly used for pants, knickers, and uniforms. |
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11. Flannel Fabric
Flannel is a woolen fabric woven in plain or twill weave having the characteristic soft handle. It looks like a bulky fabric due to the milling that is usually done to this fabric. Flannel fabric is used for suits and pants and infant’s clothing.
This fabric is popular as a cleaning fabric due to its extreme softness. This is also used to protect children from the cold atmosphere |
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12. Gabardine Fabric
Gabardine is a closely woven, clear finished warp-faced twill fabric. It contains a number of warp yarns than weft yearns and is also more durable. It is usually woven in 2/1 or 2/2 twill and has a raised diagonal twill effect on the right side. It is largely used for raincoats, suitings, and sportswear. |
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13. Georgette Fabric
Georgette is a sheer lightweight fabric, woven in plain weave. It has a characteristic rough texture produced by hard twisted ply, yarns both in warp and weft. Originally it was made in silk, but today it is produced in rayon and polyester too. It’s mainly suitable for women’s evening wear. |
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14. Kashmir Silk Fabric
Kashmir silk is a silk fabric produced in plain weave and is either embroidered or printed. The motifs used are characteristic of Kashmir. It is used for shirts, women’s wear, and sarees. Kashmir shawls are woven in twill weave and are usually embroidered with traditional Kashmiri embroidery. |
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15. Khadi Fabric
Khadi is a term used for a wide variety of fabrics that are hand-spun and hand-woven. They are produced in mainly one cotton fiber, blends of two or more fibers. They are known for durability and simplicity. The fabrics can be suitings dhoties overalls and household textiles.
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16. Lawn Fabric
The lawn is a fine sheet, lightweight, crisp fabric either made of cotton or linen. Various finishes are given to this fabric, in which the fabric is called by the name of the finish. It is mainly used as lining in a dress. |
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17. Mulmul Fabric
It is an Indian term generally applied to fine cotton fabric slightly heavier, than muslin. These are often printed fabrics. They find use as sarees. |
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18. Muslin Fabric
Muslin is a lightweight open cloth of plain weave. It may be used as grey or bleached and dyed. It is used as household textiles and dress materials. The name is derived from the city of Mosul where the fabric was first made.
It is a very light and open tabby (plain) weave fabric used for summer dresses and utility use. At first, the cloth was not always plain but could also have silk and gold thread woven into it. As the ability to spin yarns of greater fineness developed cotton was used more readily than silk. In this muslin, the motif weaves in and out of the cloth, as if it has been embroidered. In the Madras net, the motif is predominately woven on the surface. |
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19. Poplin Fabric
Poplin is a medium weight, the cotton fabric having a fine weft rib. it is generally used for shirting, dresses, and upholstery. |
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20. Sheeting Fabric
These are primarily used for bed coverings. They are medium-weight, closely woven fabrics woven either in plain or twin weave. Sheeting fabrics are made in different widths. High-quality cotton sheetings are made in plain weave with a width of 64″ x 58″ and in a twill weave with a width of 60″x72″. |
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21. Taffeta Fabric
Taffeta is a smooth, crisp, transparent fabric having a fine rib. Originally it is made with silk fibers but now it is also made of rayon. It has a characteristic finish that produces crispness. It is used as women’s evening wear. |
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22. Tissue Fabric
It is a fine fabric either made of silk or man-made fiber. They are characteristically interwoven with gold or silver threads. It is produced in rich colors and they are used as women’s dress material, sarees, etc. |
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23. Aertex Fabric
A trade name for a cloth patented in Britain in 1886, which was first manufactured in 1888. The cloth traps air in between its structure, keeping the body cool in summer, and warm in winter. Two threads or ends act as one thread; when a weft thread passes between them, the doup ends twist catching the weft and holding it tightly in place. Very fancy and beautiful clothes can be produced by combining cross weaving with other weave structures. |
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24. Madras Muslin Net Fabric
Madras net is used mainly for furnishing such as curtaining. The cloth is an open gauze ground cloth where an extra weft is inserted to produce a motif, this is then woven into the ground cloth. Where there is a surplus floating weft yarn this is then cut away after weaving revealing the motif, the edge of the sheared motif shows shorn ends of weft yarn. |
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25. Aida cloth Fabric
Aida cloth is a cotton fabric with a natural mesh pattern generally used for cross-stitch embroidery. The open, even-weave Aida fabrics’ natural stiffness enables the fabric the embroiderer’s choice. |
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26. Velvet Fabric
It is a warp cut pile fabric, originally made from silk. It is also produced in Rayon. The dense cut pile makes it very soft and lustrous. It is used as dress materials for women and children. It is also produced with special high twisted yarns which are single or ply yarns. Based on the yarns used and twist given, they are named as semi violes (single yarns1x1) full voiles. (ply yarns 2×2) or half voile (double in warp and single in weft 2×1). |
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27. Mousseline Fabric
A term used to denote very fine clear fabrics, finer than muslins. Made of silk, wool, or cotton, the weave structure is either (plain) tabby or two and one twill. In the 18th century, the British term referred to a fine cloth with a cotton warp and a worsted weft. In France, from the late 18th century onwards mousseline-delaines were made of very fine wool which was printed in beautiful designs. This fabric proved very popular for fashionable as dress and shawl fabrics. The mousseline cloth is so fine and transparent it is often found backed with another cloth of either satin or taffeta silk. |
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28. Organdie / Organza Fabric
Originally it is a lawn fabric that is given a stiff finish. Acid is used for this finish to make the fabric transparent and stiff. It is mainly used for women’s wear.
A thin light fabric in a (plain) tabby weave which, if organza, has a very stiff crisp finish; and for organdie, the finish is lighter or there is no finish, and thus the cloth is more pliable. The structure of the cloth always has more warps than wefts per inch, and the weft threads are finer than the warp threads. Illustrated is a colorful group of organza fabrics. |
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29. Leno Fabric
A fabric in which an open effect is created by causing certain thread ends or doup threads to cross over. Two threads or ends act as one thread; when a weft thread passes between them, the doup ends twist catching the weft and holding it tightly in place. Very fancy and beautiful clothes can be produced by combining cross weaving, with other weave structures. |
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Fabrics 101: How to Pick the Right Fabric for Your Project
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Choosing the right fabric when creating a new project is one of the most important steps we take. If we make the wrong choice, this can greatly affect our finished product.
In making the correct choice, we are moved either by the fabric’s texture or design. Finding a happy medium between the two is sewing heaven, indeed!
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Fabric Types | Choose A Fiber
1. Natural Fiber
Fabrics from natural fiber come from both plants or animals. Cotton and linen or flax are both from plants, while wool and silk are both products from animals. |
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- Popular
- Versatile
- Inexpensive
Cotton comes from plants of the same name. Its use as a fabric has a long history dating back to prehistoric times, and it remains the most common and widely used fabric today.
Cotton is best for children’s clothing because it is soft, breathable, and lightweight. It is also durable, so it’s perfect for everyday wear and fine either with hand or machine wash. |
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- Popular
- Versatile
- Inexpensive
Linen is one of the types of fabric from plants people value in hot and humid areas for its incredible breathability and coolness. When it comes to sewing, linen fabric is a fascinating material to work with: easy to handle and durable.
Embroidery projects are great with linen fabrics. |
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- Durable
- Rich texture
- Sustainable
Anytime you need sturdy and stiff material, get jute or bamboo textile. Projects like table runners, placemats, bath runners, rugs, and certain types of upholstery work great with jute. |
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- Durable
- Great insulator
- Rich color
Using animal hair or wool fabric in garments or clothing also covers a rich history dating as far as plant fibers were used. If you’re looking to sew some winter clothing, wool fabric is a great choice for these kinds of projects. |
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- Lustrous
- Fades easily
- More costly
One of the most celebrated fabrics, silk, makes luxurious clothing, textile crafts, and bed linens. Silk dresses cost more because they are soft and lightweight, yet durable.
Dyes in silk tend to bleed, so it’s best to dry clean the fabric or hand wash in cold water. |
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2. Man-Made Fiber
Fabric demands gave way to man-made or synthetic fiber. Now, man-made fiber is popular in textile crafts like clothing, bags, and home decor.
Some common and popular man-made fibers are nylon, spandex, acrylic, kevlar, and vinyon.
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- Inexpensive
- Doesn’t wrinkle easily
This versatile man-made fabric is not only great for clothing projects, but is also exceptional for curtains, pillowcases, bedsheets, and tablecloths. One of the major advantages of polyester fabrics is its resistance to stains. |
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- Widely used
- Versatile
- Often not durable
Rayon fabric and its variants in viscose came to be in the quest for artificial silk. Like silk, rayon fabric is great for clothing because it is lightweight, flowy, and doesn’t wrinkle easily, but it is not expensive. |
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While widely used in different industries, fiberglass cloth or fabric has not conquered the clothing industry. The cloth is used, instead, for outdoor sports needs in harnesses and sails. |
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Fabric Types | Choose A Material
1. Staple Fiber
Any type of fiber in short lengths. Spin this together to create a yarn.
2. Filament Fiber
Silk or man-made fiber in continuous strands.
3. Yarn
Fibers of varying lengths spun together for a thicker, stronger strand.
Fabric Types | Choose a Construction Style
1. Non-Woven
The entire piece of fabric is dyed after construction. A blend of fibers can create a multi-colored effect.
2. Woven
Vertical and horizontal yarns interlace to form a woven fabric. These types of fabrics are great for sewing beginners because they are crisper and they hold in place.
3. Knitted Fabric
Yarns create interlocking loops to form a knitted fabric. A knit fabric makes comfy clothes to wear, but being stretchy makes it a bit tricky to sew.
Fabric Types | Choose a Design + Color
1. Piece Dyed
The entire piece of fabric is dyed after construction. A mix of fibers can create a multi-colored effect.
2. Yarn-Dyed
The yarn is dyed before the fabric is constructed.
3. Woven In
The pattern is created by weaving different colored fabrics together.
4. Printed
The pattern is applied to the face of the fabric. And it appears on only one side.
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Fabric Types | Know Your Fabric
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Ultra heavy-duty plain weave made with cotton or linen.
From: China 3000 BC
Cultural Fact: Designed to be sturdy enough for sails and tents. Also called sailcloth.
Where to Use: Artists paint on it, but it’s also great for upholstery that needs durability more than softness. Use when recovering a footstool or ottoman.
You can also use canvas in textile crafts like homemade bags, purses, coasters, table runners, and other home accessories.
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Offset weave forms a diagonal pattern that is stronger and thicker and hides soil better than plain weave.
From: Scotland
Cultural Fact: Denim, tweed, houndstooth, and herringbone are all twills.
Where to use: Twill fabric is often used in apparel, but it’s beautiful for curtains as well. The thick fabric drapes well and resists wrinkling.
Twill fabrics like denim are woven in a warp and weft fashion, making them durable and weather-resistant. That is why twill fabric garments are commonly used in outdoor activities.
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Variation of the twill weave that forms a chevron or “V” pattern.
From: Ireland
Cultural Fact: Tweeds like herringbone were the “performance fabric” of their day for 19th-century sportsmen.
Where to Use: Herringbone fabrics drape beautifully as curtains and can provide excellent insulation.
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Compact weave. Warp floats over many weft yarns to produce a sheen on one side.
From: China
Cultural Fact: Satin has been used for many years to cover ballet slippers and pointe shoes.
Where to Use: Use this statement-making fabric to make bedding, decorative pillows, and flowing draperies.
It is also great for formal wear in flowy and sleek dresses.
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Woven fabric with a strong horizontal stub, originally silk.
From: China
Cultural Fact: In The Sound of Music, Maria’s beautiful wedding dress was made of shantung silk.
Where to Use: This fabric has a slight sheen and flows beautifully for sheer drapes, Roman shades, and table runners.
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Woven or knitted fabric with a cut pile on the surface that gives it a fuzzy feel.
From: Kashmir
Cultural Fact: Velvet was a huge trend in ’90s fashion, with icons like Princess Diana leading the way.
Where To Use: This fabric brings rich color and surprising durability to upholstery and offers amazing insulation for draperies.
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Design inspired by garden trellises and Moroccan tiles.
From: England
Cultural Fact: Some patterns feature quatrefoil designs, a classic symbol found in gothic architecture.
Where to Use: This pattern looks stylish anywhere. Try it on Roman shades, shower curtains, or accent pillows.
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A classic leaf-inspired pattern often in repeating pendants, can be jacquard or printed. Because of its heft, it is best used for drapery and upholstery.
From: Damascus
Cultural Fact: The damask pattern is often seen in brocade and upholstery fabrics.
Where to Use: This heavier-weight fabric is perfect for draperies and tablecloths.
Damask is a reversible pattern of fabric, making it perfect for such textile crafts.
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Denim-like twill with double stripes, traditionally in indigo or black on white.
From: France
Cultural Fact: Originally used for mattress and pillow covers. Its tight weave and wax seal kept feathers from poking through.
Where to Use: This petite stripe works well for upholstery and bedding, especially with French country decor.
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Wide striped design inspired by fabric awnings on storefronts.
From: United States
Cultural Fact: These bold stripes are seen most often in preppy, east coast style.
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Threads are dyed several colors with a tie-dye type method and then woven to form intricate patterns.
From: Malaysia
Cultural Fact: The signature “hazy” look of ikat fabrics comes from the dye bleeding up the threads as it is colored.
Where to Use: Ikat is everywhere in the fashion world. It looks beautiful on windows, beddings, or even as a wall hanging.
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The pattern is woven in so that the reverse appears on the opposite side.
From: France (Lyon)
Cultural Fact: Named for Joseph Marie Jacquard, who invented the Jacquard loom in 1801.
Where to Use: Jacquard is a classic piece of upholstery fabric. It gives the furniture a formal look. Give it a try for draperies and tablecloths as well.
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A piece of thin and lightweight fabric with a translucent or sheer appearance, made from polyester.
From: France
Cultural Fact: This fabric was made from silk until 1938 when the first non-silk chiffon became available.
Chiffon is an extremely delicate fabric, and production is a laborious process.
Where to Use: Since chiffon is sheer, it’s most often used as an overlay for evening wear or for special occasions.
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Thin type of leather, originally made from lamb, but synthetic alternatives are available.
From: Sweden
Cultural Fact: The French term “gant de Suede” means “gloves of Sweden.” During the romantic period, suede became popular among French nobility, especially lady’s gloves.
Where to Use: Suede is used for various garments and accessories, from jackets to handbags and shoes. Suede is prone to staining and absorbing water. This means it’s best not for everyday use.
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A soft type of wool, made from goats-hair.
From: Kashmir region & Gobi Desert region
Cultural Fact: Cashmere is finer than regular wool, making it possible to weave dense fabric that is lightweight and thin.
Where to Use: Cashmere is relatively delicate and doesn’t insulate as well as wool, but is soft enough to wear directly against the skin. The best application for this fabric is in light sweaters, scarves, or gloves. But it can also be used for underwear or blouses.
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16. Lycra/Spandex/Elastane
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Lycra or Spandex are the brand names for elastane, a synthetic elastic fabric.
From: United States
Cultural Fact: Lycra is a polymer, but unlike other synthetic fabrics, it’s resistant to heat.
Where to Use: Lycra is rarely used on its own and is usually woven in with other textiles to increase flexibility.
Lycra blends are found in most garments, from socks to sportswear. Almost any form-fitting garment contains some amount of lycra.
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